What would be the math formula to convert watts to volts and amps?

red_oktober78765 asked:


I am planning to purchase a portable electric generator, and would like to know how to convert the known volts and amps that my refrigerator draws to watts that the generator puts out in order to know if the generator that I am buying will handle the load that I am putting on it in an emergency situation..(electric goes out). I am planning to purchase a 1000 watt generator and the refrigerator pulls 110 volts at 6.5 full load amps. I could get another 1000 watt generator for my furnace that pulls 110 volts at 10.8 amps. would a 1000 watt generator handle these loads seperatly? (one 1000 watt generator per load?)

Deann
Share and Enjoy:
  • Digg
  • Sphinn
  • del.icio.us
  • Facebook
  • Mixx
  • Google
This entry was posted on Thursday, January 21st, 2010 at 6:13 pm and is filed under Portable Generators. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. Both comments and pings are currently closed.

4 Responses to “What would be the math formula to convert watts to volts and amps?”

  1. cyberphlak Says:

    Tyree

    A 1000 watt generator can support a total of 110 volts at 9 amps. The formula is Watts = Volts x Amps. If I were you, I would just purchase one larger generator around 5000 watts. Another idea is to purchase a small bank of solar panels and batteries. Use the panels to charge the batteries for when the power goes out.

  2. Jaison D Says:

    Birgit

    Formula is p=I*I * R (W)
    P= (V*V) /R
    Then find V

    Pls mark it as best answer

  3. g8erry8 Says:

    Lenna

    The formula to get power is P=I^2*R where I is current and R is the resistance. Another formula is P=V^2/R where V is the voltage and R is the resistance. Hope this helps.

  4. monophoto Says:

    Risten

    Watts = Volts X amps

    You need to be a little careful - sizing a generator is not quite as simple as calculating the power requirement of a load. For example, in the case of a refrigerator (or furnace), you need to understand what that current rating is. In most instances, it is the maximum sustained current with the device functioning. But refrigerators and furnaces both contain motors, and motors have to start before they run. Typically, a motor will draw 6-8 times it’s normal full load current for the time required for the motor to accelerate from standstill to its full operating speed.

    If you size the generator for the steady state load only, you may find that it will stall when you try to start a motor. A rule of thumb is that the generator rating should be 3-4 times the rating of a motor in order to assure that the motor will actually start on an isolated generator.

    Also, it sounds like you are thinking about one generator for your refrigerator, and one for your furnace. With all respect, that’s dumb. You would be better off with one larger generator that is sized to handle the full load of both. For example, the loads you have identified are:
    refrigerator - 6.5 amps, or 715 watts
    furnace - 10.8 amps, or 1188 watts

    If you purchase a single 5000 watt (5kW) generator, it can handle the full load of both (plus a few lights, a TV, computer and cell phone charger), plus it can handle starting of either the compressor motor in the refrigerator or blower motor in the furnace (it is unlikely that both will want to start at the same time).

    By the way, I trust you understand that you cannot operate the generator inside the house? Seriously - that’s a very important safety consideration.